Constructing A Welt Pocket

I started off this week by creating a welt pocket using the traditional Savilerow tailoring methods where they use canvas and no interfacing and baste around the edges of the pocket to retain its shape and structure. 

Traditionally the breast welt pocket is 11.4 cm long and roughly 2.5 cm wide and is normally placed on the left side of the jacket at the same level of the front sleeve notch. The placement of the pocket is usually slanted at about 1.3 cm but this can vary depending on your personal style. 

To start off my pocket I chalked in where I wanted the welt to go drawing a line through the centre marking where I would cut the opening for the pocket. To construct the welt I had a piece of canvas which was slightly bigger than the welt itself and two pieces of pocketing (one slightly larger than the other). 

The canvas is basted onto the wrong side of the fabric, I then aligned the welt to the centre line I marked on earlier and basted it on the right side of the fabric leaving a 0.5 cm seam allowance. I did the same with the top pocketing fabric making sure that the bottom edge lined up with where I will cut the pocket opening. Once this was done I stitched the bottom pocketing to the welt (right sides together) using a 0.5 cm seam allowance to reduce any bulk. Cutting the opening part of the pocket is the most important part, I cut the opening the same width as the pocket seam making sure to cut at an angle down to the seam ends of the welt. Once this was done I pulled everything through to the wrong side of the fabric and sewed the pocketing together using a machine, I could then neaten the pocket and press open the seams to make sure the pocket laid flat and was ridge free. The images above show some of the process to making the pocket. 

I think my pocket went reasonably well especially considering I sometimes struggle with these types of pockets I think the pocket could have been neater at the edges and this is something I need to work on however I have enjoyed the hand sewing process of the pocket. I'm pleased that I now know the process of making the pocket inside and out due to the amount of questions I've asked Ivor during the making process.