Red Shears is an insight into Savannah Hall's journey into a career in luxury menswear tailoring. Currently a student & intern she lives in Bournemouth and interns in London.

Interview with Nylander Couture

On Monday I had my interview with Ivor Nylander, it went really well as he was extremely nice and liked my portfolio. The interview was short and brief. After the interview I was asked to stay till 18:00 to take part in a trial, I was given a few different tasks to complete (shown in the images). 


The image above shows an example of the beginnings of a waist coat. I had to stitch the front pieces together and create two pipped jets.  In traditional tailoring interfacing is not used so to replace this they use a canvas material, this is the method I used to create the jets. I also had to do a lot  of basting (tacking) which I don't normally do at uni however I could definitely see the benefits from basting rather than just using the machine straight away. It was quite challenging doing the jet pockets without any help as I have only ever completed jetted pockets once or twice and that was with the help of my trusty friend YouTube. So as you can imagine completing them on my own while feeling nervous and under pressure was a nerve-racking feeling, I eventually finished the pockets but made a few miner mistakes which meant that there was a little ridge/bump that you could feel around the pockets due to the seams being too small to press open. I attempted the pocket again shown in the image above  (on the left side of the fabric) it was a lot more successful as Ivor showed me some techniques he learnt when training in Savilerow and the methods they use. Although I managed to complete the pocket I definitely need more practise.


During the day I was also given some pattern pieces to experiment with, the pieces were two shapes that were curved and fitted together, all I had to do was sew them together (shown in the image above). Sounds rather right? This is precisely what I was thinking, it turned out to be a lot harder than it looked as sewing around the curves was extremely difficult because the fabric would just get caught and pucker, this wasn't helped by the fact the lining was slightly stretchy as well but I'm just impressed that I even got an end result because this little sample is very deceiving. 

After my trial Ivor spoke to me and said that he is willing to teach me bespoke menswear tailoring and I can start on Monday 14th from 11am to 18:00/19:00, I'm extremely happy as although it was a very nerve-racking day I've learnt more techniques and industry knowledge in one day then I have within a month of uni. I have learnt that there are some things I've been doing and or sewing wrong through listening to Ivor talk about his experiences and through observing how he does things in his studio. 

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