This week I have been working on creating some jacket patterns for a client. The patterns were for a womens jacket that included a lot of details such as storm patches, yokes, jetted pockets, zips, buttons and even lights. The style of the jacket was very futuristic and modern yet very simple which meant that the patterns and finishing's will be all the more important as they will be very visible to the wearer. The pressure was definitely on this week as accuracy is definitely key to perfecting this style of jacket.
I started the jacket patterns early on in the week, the images above shows some of the stages in creating the patterns. I decided the jacket should have quite a small facing due to the style of the jacket. The client wanted a jetted pocket inside so I thought it would be best to add this into the facing as the final jacket material is very stiff I felt adding the pocket into the facing would retain the jackets style and would be a nice design feature when the jacket is opened.
Once I was confident I had got the patterns as accurate as possible I started to create a basic toile of the jacket only featuring the main big details that help create the shape and fit. I left out smaller details such as the jetted pockets as I have practised and worked on jetted pockets enough times now to know that I am confident in my ability to make them and to know that they will work in most jacket styles I come across.
The jacket style was quite sharp and futuristic so creating a nice shape and point on the storm patches was very important, I mitred the corners of the patches to create quite a sharp flat point that sits well on the body. I also pressed the calico extremely well to make sure I created a nice defined curve that mirrored on each side.
I am aware that early on in this placement I had done a huge amount of sampling for myself and Ivor spent a lot of his time teaching me the ways of traditional tailoring. This was all good practice and it has taught me so much as well as giving me the confidence to be able to take on projects for his clients such as the above jacket. I also feel it is extremely good of Ivor to trust me with the entire making process of this jacket. I am enjoying my time here and I feel I have learnt so much I think I am extremely lucky to find a placement where the owner/manager of the company is willing to teach me anything I want to learn and really wants me to do well. I am very grateful for everything I have learnt and really feel that working at Nylander Couture will be extremely beneficial to helping me get into tailoring.
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